Jovoy Paris Rouge Assassin EDP
Description
Rouge Assassin takes its name and its inspiration from a crimson lipstick, a fragrance about the ritual of putting one on. Composed by Amélie Bourgeois and launched in 2012, it opens on a beautiful, restrained iris: dense, waxy, and unmistakably the "lipstick" style of iris note that reviewers single out as the composition's signature. Underneath, ambrette and rice powder soften the edges into something reviewers describe as both sexy and comforting, balancing nostalgia with a grown-up allure.
Scent Character
- Woody: 38% (cedar, sandalwood, tonka)
- Sweet: 29% (tonka bean, benzoin, vanilla)
- Floral: 25% (iris, rose)
- Fresh: 8% (bergamot)
Translation: a powdery, waxy iris held up by warm woods and sweetness. The "lipstick" note is the star, but it's grounded rather than airy.
Fragrance Pyramid
Top: Bergamot, Rose
Heart: Ambrette, Elemi Resin, Rice Powder
Base: Benzoin, Iris, Tonka Bean, Cedar, Musk, Sandalwood, Vanilla
Performance
Longevity: Strong, in the 7-9 hour range.
Sillage: Moderate-to-strong, with good projection through the powdery iris opening before settling closer to skin in the drydown.
Best Occasions & Season
- Best for fall and spring
- Suited to business, everyday, and leisure wear. The powdery iris keeps it polished rather than overtly evening-only
- Marketed for women, though its restrained, powdery character (one reviewer called it a "genderless lipstick perfume") wears comfortably on anyone who likes iris-forward compositions
Concentration & Provenance
Concentration: Eau de Parfum
Perfumer: Amélie Bourgeois
House: Jovoy Paris, Parfumeur Parisien
Launched: 2012
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FAQ
What does "lipstick" iris smell like?
Dense, waxy, and powdery: reviewers use the term specifically because Rouge Assassin's iris note reads like the scent of a fresh lipstick rather than a soft, airy orris.
Is it strictly a women's fragrance?
It's marketed for women, but several reviewers describe it as effectively genderless given how restrained and powdery (rather than sweet-floral) the composition is.
How long does it last?
Around 7-9 hours, with solid projection in the opening hours.
What's the best season for it?
Fall and spring: it's versatile enough for both cooler shoulder seasons.