Maison Crivelli Iris Malikhan EDP
Description
Iris Malikhân is Maison Crivelli's iris, composed by Marc Zini and released in 2020. The image behind it is lush iris fields at the edge of a desert, and the contrast is the whole point.
Most iris fragrances are sweet or powdery. This one is green and dry. It opens crisp and almost grassy with galbanum and blackcurrant leaf, then orris butter comes through (smooth, slightly buttery, very refined) supported by mastic, cypress and a supple leather. Only in the drydown does it settle into a soft cloud of powder.
Scent Character
- Woody: 36% (cypress, mastic, leather)
- Spicy: 27% (cinnamon, pink pepper, coriander)
- Floral: 18% (orris, mimosa)
- Sweet: 18% (vanilla, amber)
Translation: buttery orris set against green, resinous dryness rather than sugar. Modern and unisex, and unusual for the note.
Fragrance Pyramid
- Top: Galbanum, Blackcurrant Syrup, Pink Pepper
- Heart: Orris Butter, Mastic (Lentisque), Mimosa, Cypress
- Base: Leather, Amber, Vanilla, Cinnamon
Performance
Longevity: Good. Orris is an expensive, tenacious material and it holds through the day.
Sillage: Strong for something this dry. It carries further than its restrained character suggests.
Best Occasions & Season
Works across spring, fall and winter, and is comfortable for business, evening and leisure alike. Its dryness makes it one of the more office-appropriate iris fragrances.
Concentration & Provenance
Eau de Parfum, 3.4 oz / 100 ml. Shipped from the United States.
Try Before You Commit
Decants start at $5.99 for 1 mL, with a 10 mL size also poured. Iris divides people more than almost any other material, so this is a sensible one to test first.
100% Authentic
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Frequently Asked Questions
Is it a powdery iris?
Only at the very end. For most of its life it is green, dry and resinous, which is precisely what separates it from the makeup-bag iris most people expect.
What is mastic?
A resin from the lentisk shrub, faintly pine-like and slightly sweet. It is what gives the middle its dry, Mediterranean character.
Is it unisex?
Genuinely so. The leather and cypress give it enough structure that it does not read as a feminine floral.